First up is the portable table saw. There are two variations in this category, the first of which is the benchtop. As the name implies, the benchtop table saw is designed to be used on top of a table or bench. They’re small, so that it doesn’t matter which table or bench you put them on, and they’re light enough to be carried from place-to-place. This type of saw was originally meant for construction, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t get good use out of it in your shop or garage.

Often called benchtop, jobsite, or worksite saws, portable table saws are typically made of lightweight materials, such as an aluminum table top, so that they’re easy to move from place to place. Sometimes they’ll have wheels attached to make shifting them around even easier. The motors on portable saws are also much smaller than on other types of table saws, and are typically less powerful.

Contractor models also tend to be more powerful and more precise than portable saws, which gives them a definite upside if you’re going to be doing lots of work, or work that requires a fine degree of precision. This type can also be a good choice if you’re going to leave your table saw in one place for extended periods of time, while still being light enough that they can be moved if you need to do so.
TBB used an iGauging 35-125-4 digital dial indicator to measure the accuracy of the blade position to the table miter slot. This instrument has an accuracy of .0005 inches. As part of the table saw set-up, TBB installed a new Diablo blade in each saw and these never-before-used blades were used in the measurement test. To ensure that any wobble in the blade did not enter into the test results, TBB marked a single tooth as the reference point for the measurement. The blade position was moved to the front of the saw to allow the iGauging dial indicator to hit the tooth immediately behind the carbide tooth, The iGauging dial indicator was calibrated and the indicator had a reading of zero.
It’s worth remembering that contractor table saws are still going to be pretty portable because they’re designed to be used by contractors. That being said, unlike portable table saws, they don’t necessarily fold up into a compact position. This is largely because contractors tend to have the facilities needed in order to transport a larger bit of kit. The extra space that they take up in comparison to a portable table saw means that contractor table saws are able to offer a greater level of power and precision. Both of these points further support the fact that contractor table saws sit in the middle ground.
The SKILSAW SPT70WT-01 is truly a woodworking marvel, packing a 15-amp Dual Field motor into a surprisingly lightweight yet durable 49-pound frame. Whether you’re an amateur carpenter or a contractor with years of experience under his toolbelt, SKILSAW’s workhorse of a table saw is an invaluable addition to your repertoire thanks to its raw torque and unparalleled 25" ripping capacity, meaning tearing through thick sheets of plywood has never been easier.
A magnetic switch is also good from a safety standpoint but may not be necessary on these smaller versions. A magnetic switch prevents the saw from starting back up if it loses power during a power outage. Basically, the power outage will turn off the saw. This is good because if for some reason the power were to come back on when you were not near the machine, the material could be shot out of it or damage the saw.
A lot of the modern table saws nowadays will have a dust collection port where you can hook up a vacuum or extraction system to it. We would always recommend that you purchase a table saw with a dust port, always check the size of the port to make sure it fits with either your vacuum or your extraction system, or you can always modify something to make them fit.
Once you’ve tightened the nut again, put on the plate and set both screws back into their original spots. Screw both of the screws back in and then wind your blade back down. Now, clear your work area of any miscellaneous tools and test your machine by plugging it in and hitting the start button. Once you’ve determined that the machine is working properly you can resume your woodwork again.
When choosing the best table saw for jobsites, you’ll need a rip capacity of more than 24″. Why? 24″ is half the width of sheet material. Some models will give you as much as 35″. Since you ideally want to have the waste edge opposite the fence, the larger the capacity the better. But again, jobsite table saws are designed for Pros with a little more inherent forgiveness in the job, so the assumption is that you can cut the waste edge against the fence if necessary.
Kobalt’s KT1015 Table Saw features value pricing with a decent rolling stand. We initially had questions about its dual-locking fence, but found that it actually worked quite well. There’s plenty of wobble in it, but if you follow our Pro Tip on adjustments in the fences section, you can lock the front end in square then stabilize it with the back lock.
Ridgid’s fence is outstanding for its design. Its large front plate helps stabilize it and the whole thing just feels solid. There’s very little play compared to some of the others and we were consistently able to lock it down perfectly square. We like the pinion style bevel adjustment. It’s not quite a good as a separate adjustment wheel, but a great improvement over simple sliding. We also like the independent locks for both height and bevel. It’s not often that a height lock would be required, but there’s an element of confidence that comes from knowing it won’t be going anywhere.
When you need a full size cabinet saw that can handle just about any woodworking job you can throw at it, the Powermatic PM2000 is the one for you. As with all high end cabinet saws, the PM2000 features box-style cast iron trunnions for that refined, precise feel when adjusting the blade angle and height. Front control wheels are user-friendly cast iron hand wheels that feature precision-machined center locking pins for making every cut consistent and repeatable.
One of the first things many Pros do is permanently (and intentionally) lose the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls. While they are a pain to install and store onboard, their ability to reduce the risk of injury is significant. Table saws are responsible for thousands of injuries every year and there are plenty of guys running around with stories of how they got injured. So practice installing them until it feels natural and then actually use them onsite.
As you can tell, this particular type is in the middle between portable and contractor. Some people can finish their projects with bench top saws, but the ones who can’t usually opt for hybrid saws because they are cheaper than contractor ones. One cannot say they are cheap per se, but it’s a significantly smaller investment in comparison to contractor models.
To get the best use of something it is very important to understand it and to have complete information regarding it. It is a powerful tool that is used for different types of works. When it comes to a woodworking machine, many options are available, but to use it to its maximum potential you need to take into account several factors. First of all, it is important to know that there are many different types of circular saws available in the marketplace. In what regards the portability, there are two types of saws including portable and stationary. As you may have already read, most of our reviewed saws are portable and easy to move from a place to another. However, in this article, you will find information about each type of saw as well as about their classifications.
Accessories 10″ 24-Tooth Carbide Blade, 2x Blade Wrenches, rolling stand, blade guard assembly, push stick, miter gauge, rip fence 10 in. 40-tooth carbide-tipped blade, throat plate insert, smart guard system, rip fence, miter gauge, push stick 32T carbide-tipped blade, rip fence, miter gauge, push stick, and wrenches Rip Fence, Miter Gauge, Smart Guard System, Push Stick, Blade Change Wrenches 24-tooth SKILSAW Carbide-tipped blade for ripping, miter gauge, self-aligning fence, guard system including anti-kick back device, insert plate, push stick and wrench

The stand is collapsible and wheeled like others, but it’s not the gravity-rise style. You’ll have to use a foot to stabilize it while you pivot it up or lower it down. The lower locks are released with your feet and there’s some question about the long term durability of the releases. An open housing design has two major results – motor cooling should be more efficient but it trades off storage for an extra blade. There’s really way too much to talk about here, so check out our full review of this model.


The cabinet saws are the most powerful woodworking machines. They are durable and strong enough to resist for a long period of time. Most people prefer them because of their impressive features which make them precise and extremely accurate. The motors of these units usually run on 240V and produce from 3 to 5 hp. As mentioned before they are very heavy. Most models weight more than 500 pounds, however, this makes them very stable.
From flexible plywood sheets that move on their own to thick wood boards, this Jet 708677PK XACTASAW Deluxe 5HP Cabinet Saw can help you cut through all types of wood. This saw comes with a riving knife that reduces the risk of binding and kickbacks and has a quick release design to let you use it anytime you need. A left tilt trunnion makes pushing boards and sheets through easier while also giving you the stability that you might need.

In layman’s terms, a miter gauge is a device that allows users to set up the angle of the material being cut with a table saw. And while most table saws come with built-in miter gauges, others, well, don’t — which is why the Kreg KMS7102 Table Saw Precision Miter Gauge System is invaluable. Whether you’re replacing an old, worn-out gauge or putting it to use in conjunction with a table saw that didn’t come with its own proprietary gauge, the KMS7102 is specially designed with precision in mind. After all, accuracy is vital to successful woodwork.

Ergonomics is the science of designing and producing tools that improve a worker’s efficiency while reducing discomfort, fatigue, and risk of injury. Ergonomically enhanced tools can include helpful features such as angled handles, riving knives, safety switches, and non-slip coatings. Whether you’re shopping for ergonomic tools or just trying to select the right one for the job from an existing collection, the key things to consider are whether or not the tool eases your work and prevents you from straining in ways that could lead to injury. Ergonomic guidelines in tool design can help maximize human performance on the job by making the job easier for the worker, improving safety and decreasing injuries.


Patrick – Thanks for the feedback. Trust me, I wish we could spend more time on every aspect but we spent hundreds of hours as it was. I can tell you that the rack and pinion fences are much better than the standard fences of the past. Our entire group felt strongly that we’d prefer the rack and pinion on all the saws. We felt the Ridgid and Delta fences were the least impressive of the standard type.
The most critical safety feature on a table saw is the blade guard. It’s all that separates your fingers from the rapidly rotating blade. You need this to be transparent or it will make measuring awkward. The last thing you want is to be tempted to remove an unfit guard. Check closely for a clear, flexible blade guard. Safety is paramount when operating a table saw.
Love the video. It was very helpful, answered some of the questions I've had and wondered if you can expand this a bit further. I have a Thomasville bedroom set that I bought in 1981. After all of the years of my wife using hairspray, there's a layer of it on the bed's foot board and the top and leading edge of the dresser. Will this technique remove the hair spray and restore the finish? I tried using denatured alcohol to clean it in the past but stopped short of using a sanding pad or working it to the point that nit was anything but tacky. Sounds like I didn't work it long enough. Am I right or do I need to do something else? These areas are the only bad spots on any of the 5 pieces of the set. Thanks!
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